Opera is full of iconic characters. Often, what makes these characters shine even brighter is an equally iconic costume. So, in honour of the beginning of London Fashion Week, let’s take a look at some of WNO’s most memorable and eye-catching costumes of the last few years…
Emilia Marty (The Makropulos Affair, 2022)
What better way to start off than with the mysterious diva Emilia Marty? Emilia wore multiple glamorous outfits, designed by Nicola Turner. However, none stand out more than her bold red dress, which took centre stage. This was co-ordinated with red lipstick, a red wig and chunky gold and red jewellery. Magnetic tape also ran down the side of the skirt, allowing it to be removed entirely, revealing a second black skirt underneath. During the performance, Emilia used the upper skirt like a matador’s cape in a fierce display.
Don Giovanni (Don Giovanni, 2022)
Next up is the desirable Don Giovanni. Symbolism played a large role in this production, with Don Giovanni representing a candle and the female characters representing moths attracted to his light. Designed by John Napier, the costumes cleverly hinted at these ideas. Don Giovanni was dressed almost fully in white in an extravagant outfit featuring fourteen metres of fabric. His ornate waistcoat and epaulette were designed to resemble those of a matador’s costume, with gold embroidery alluding to the candle’s flame.
Cio-Cio-San (Madam Butterfly, 2021)
Cio-Cio-San’s pink dress was certainly a head-turner. Not only was it beautiful, with layers of tulle and netting in varying shades of pink, but it was shocking too. The front of the dress was much shorter than the back and was designed to represent a vulva, due to her job as a prostitute. Designed by Isabella Bywater, this dress made a thought-provoking statement.
Sparafucile and Maddalena (Rigoletto, 2024)
Evil brother and sister Sparafucile and Maddalena also had to make it onto our list. The characters have a vampiric feel to them, and this was reflected in their striking costumes, designed by Annemarie Woods. All of the costumes in Rigoletto were Elizabethan-inspired, so Sparafucile wore lantern breaches and a ruff, along with a trailing cloak, while Maddalena wore a dress with a traditional Elizabethan collar adorned with jewels. Both outfits were made from silk and had barbed wire screen-printed onto them to create a sense of danger.
Elisabetta (Roberto Devereux, 2019)
Elisabetta’s red dress is another of our favourite WNO costumes. Designed by Madeleine Boyd based on a Vivienne Westwood dress, the costume was made from flowing crepe de chine, supported by a black leather belt. Elisabetta wore a faux horse-hair skirt underneath the dress, as well as gloves made of bands of stainless steel and chains. This stunning ensemble enhanced her characterisation as a warrior queen.
Tosca (Tosca, 2025)
Finally, we have our latest Tosca in her diva dress! This Season, we have two artists performing as Tosca, Natalya Romaniw and Fiona Harrison-Wolfe. Therefore, we have two dresses, both designed by Fotini Dimou. Natalya’s dress has a lace backing, with sequins and beading, plus diamante on the front. Fiona’s dress is more heavily beaded and slightly darker in colour. Both, however, sparkle under spotlights, showcasing the elegance and glamour of the opera’s protagonist.
Do you have a favourite WNO costume? Tag us on social media and let us know!